Day 78 – South Shields to Crimdon

I feel as if I should have enjoyed today. But I didn’t. Partly by territory, partly by weather. Sorry if you were hoping for Sunday cheer, but I can’t bring it.

It was a day I could describe as in out, on off, up down. Sun in, fleece on, sun out, fleece off, rain down, jacket on, sun out, steam in full waterproofs like haggis, unwilling to remove them because the ship offshore has disappeared and another shower is imminent.

Actually the morning started with a calm sunrise by Souter lighthouse, and stayed bright until my breakfast sarnie at Roker above Sunderland.

Then it greyed out, like the route through south Wearside into County Durham. Nowhere else on my journey have I seen the dismal effects of austerity as here.

The Durham heritage coast offers some decent cliff walking with real ups and downs. But each time the path descended into a ‘dene’, the path became neglected, even almost impassable at one point where a boardwalk had collapsed into the bog. And wherever people and cars have access, there’s the now customary accumulation of litter. I could cry. And so should the locals be ashamed of themselves.

This is England Coast Path too; prospects are not good.

It’s a touch and go night for camping now on a touch and go little farmsite. But I’m in and dry(ing), and the forecast is dry overnight.

It’s one more day now before I start to find the cliffs of North Yorkshire. One this form, the quicker I get there the better.

… Ken

17th September

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